The Ultimate Guide to Shimanami Kaido Cycling in Japan

The Ultimate Guide to Shimanami Kaido Cycling in Japan

When Logan and I were on a Japan road trip in 2018 we drove from Matsuyama to Onomichi crossing over a number of bridges leading to a collection of stunning islands. We noticed that each of these bridges and roads had well kept bike paths across them and saw many people cycling this scenic trail. It was then that we knew immediately we’d have to return one day to ride bikes here ourselves.

This is how we were introduced to Shimanami Kaido! In this Shimanami Kaido cycling guide, you’ll learn all about Shimanami Kaido including how to get there, where to rent bicycles, places to eat, where to stay, and things to do on Shimanami Kaido.

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What is Shimanami Kaido?

Shimanami Kaido is a 70-kilometer cycling route that connects the island of Shikoku to Honshu, Japan’s main island. This cycling route is perfect for casual and seasoned cyclists and passes through six small islands in the Seto Inland Sea. 

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How to Get to Shimanami Kaido

How to Get to Shimanami Kaido from Onomichi

If you are planning to start your trip in Onomichi you can take the Shinkansen to Shin-Onomichi Station or transfer to the JR Sanyo Line to Onomichi Station and rent your bike in Onomichi to start your cycling route. 

However, if you are starting in Imabari you can travel by bus from Onomichi to Imabari. First, you’ll take a local bus from Onomichi Station to the Innoshima Ohashi bus stop (25 minutes). Then you will transfer to a highway bus bound for Imabari Station (around 1 hour). The entire journey takes around 1.5-2 hours depending on traffic and connections and costs around 2,300 yen.

If you are traveling from Tokyo to Onomichi you can also take the Etoile Seto overnight bus from Shinjuku to Onomichi, it takes 11 hours and costs 11,700 yen one way whereas the Shinkansen from Tokyo to Onomichi is roughly 18,840 yen by Shinkansen and JR Sanyo Line. You can make online reservations for the overnight bus on Japan Bus Online or Willer. 

How to Get to Shimanami Kaido from Fukuyama

If you are traveling to one of the islands (or Imabari) the best way to get to your destination is by taking the Shinkansen to Fukuyama Station because there are no transfers. This is the route we took because we were traveling to Omishima Island so we could stop by our hotel because we rented e-bikes through them instead of one of the bike rental shops. 

From Fukuyama Station you’ll get on the Shimanami Liner Setouchi Highway Bus (number 3) which travels from Fukuyama to Imabari (2,800 yen if traveling the entire journey one-way) with a number of stops on the islands. 

If you decide to take this route keep in mind that the Setouchi Highway Bus only operates between every 50-60 minutes so make sure you plan a little time in between your Shinkansen arrival time and the bus departure time. We ended up taking a later shinkansen than we had hoped and had only five minutes to spare to get on the bus! Long story short, we didn’t make the first one. But, if you have some extra time you can always get a luggage locker and walk over to Fukuyama Castle which is right by Fukuyama Station. 

Additionally, the Setouchi Highway Bus is cash only and you pay on board when you exit the bus so make sure you have enough cash with you! When entering the bus you’ll take a ticket right by the stairs. Keep this and give it to the bus driver when you pay your fare. 

Here is the current bus schedule and fare information

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Ferry Transportation Along Shimanami Kaido

There are a number of ferry transportation options available to take during your time on Shimanami Kaido. These are helpful to know in case you want to transfer to another island without cycling or wanting to ride on one of the neighboring islands. However, it’s important to check the ferry schedule beforehand because a few of the boats are for passengers only and do not take bicycles on board.

Here are the ferries for Shimanami Kaido:

• Onomichi Ferry (Kaneyoshi Ferry): This ferry is necessary to get between Onomichi and Mukaishima. Although there is a bridge connecting the Onomichi to Mukaishima, the first island, it is not advised or recommended to use it for bicycles because it is an expressway bridge and has only one narrow pedestrian lane that typically has heavy traffic instead, take a ferry. The ferry from Onomichi to Mukaishima departs every 5-10 minutes.
  • Boats are bicycle-friendly.
  • Tickets are purchased on board with cash or change only.
  • Cost: ~70-110 yen per person (with bicycle included)
• Setouchi Cruising Ferry has a few routes but the most popular is the Onomichi Setoda Ferry Route starting at Onomichi Ekimae Port → Shigei Higashi Port → Sawa Port → Setoda Port. Ferries operate every 1-2 hours with only four stops in Sawa per day. The entire journey takes around 40 minutes.
  • All boats are bicycle friendly but limited spots are available. 
  • Tickets can be purchased on board or at the port prior to boarding. 
  • Cost: ~1,300 yen, plus 500 yen for a bicycle.
• Sankoh Line: Connects Ikuchijima to Iwagijima from the Sunoe Port (Ikuchi) to Kogikou Port (Iwagi). Ferries operate every 20 minutes in the morning and every 30 minutes in the afternoon. The journey takes around 5 minutes.
  • Boats are bicycle-friendly but have limited spots.
  • Cost: Starts at 850 yen one-way, plus 300 yen for bicycle one-way. Discounts are applied for round-trip fares.

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Luggage Service for Shimanami Kaido

If you plan to start cycling before reaching your accommodation there are options for same-day luggage delivery services available for Shimanami Kaido. 

The first is Sagawa Express which allows you to drop off your luggage at one of their affiliated facilities and you can then pick up your luggage after 6pm from one of the designated pick-up spots on their list some of these include hotels along Shimanami Kaido. Rates start at 2,200 yen/item.

The second luggage service is from WAKKA which transports from Onomichi to Imabari or any of the islands in between including Okunojima (Rabbit Island). Rates start at 4,500 yen per truck so this is great if you are traveling in a group. Bicycle transport is available with their rates as well.

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Shimanami Kaido Hotels

I cannot say enough fantastic things about where we chose to stay during our time cycling Shimanami Kaido. We spent two terrific nights at WAKKA and felt absolutely spoiled by our experience. Wakka is perfectly situated about halfway between Onomichi and Imabari on the island of Omishima making it a great place to make your base while cycling Shimnami Kaido or if you are stopping halfway.

Rooms at WAKKA

DOME TENT: We stayed in a dorm tent for our two nights at Wakka and loved this experience! The dome tents are fully air-conditioned and heated and I was surprised at how spacious it was inside because of the mindful layout. They are located closest to the sea making the view at sunrise and sunset incredible!

• Cost: Starting at ¥22,000/night
• Capacity: 3

COTTAGES: The cottages are great for families or those wanting a little more privacy because they each have private restrooms and showers along with a nice patio.

• Cost: Starting at ¥26,000/night
• Capacity: 3

DORMITORIES: The dormitory rooms are capsule style so each person has their own cubby to sleep in and place belongings. These are perfect for solo travelers or you can purchase one for your group.

• Cost: Starting at ¥5,000/night (per person)
• Capacity: 4

BOOK DIRECTLY WITH WAKKA

Facilities at WAKKA

The dormitory and dome tents share a restroom and shower space separated by sex that is just a short walk from the accommodations. Even though Wakka was at capacity when we were there neither of us ever had to wait for the shower or restroom because Wakka is a smaller hotel so capacity is still small. Everything in the common spaces was kept extremely tidy and I noticed that staff cleaned the shower areas frequently to ensure they were ready for the next guest and well stocked. 

Wakka also provided us with pajamas to wear, towels, toiletries, shampoo and conditioner, facial products, hair dryers, slippers, and all other basics. Since we visited in the spring they also gave us jackets to wear out in the evening and to breakfast so we could stay warm. 

Dining at WAKKA

Included in your room rate is daily breakfast which you can eat at the cafe in the indoor or outdoor dining space. All of the ingredients used for the breakfast are locally sourced from the islands and prepared each day. A typical breakfast had a green salad, bread, yogurt, and some sort of protein – perfect before a day of cycling! You could also get a latte or some freshly squeezed juice. 

Wakka also has two dinner options you can add to your experience, the first is their daily cafe dinner with items like Japanese curry or an Imabari pork and rice bowl. The second is their outdoor BBQ option which comes with prime cuts of beef, seafood, and vegetables you can cook on the barbecue grill on your outdoor patio. 

Bicycle Rental at WAKKA

There are a few privileges of renting a bike from Wakka when staying with them (or simply renting from them). Of course, they have complimentary bike locks, drink holders, and helmets but they also offer extra batteries for e-bikes, a bike light, insurance, rental bike clothes, daily tune-ups, and transportation options such as free shuttles to/from the bus station or other shuttle services for a fee. We chose to rent our bikes with WAKKA not only because of these added benefits or because we were staying there, but because they offer industry-leading Specialized bicycle rentals for currently around 8,000 yen a day or 15,000 yen for 2 days/1 night. 

Activities for Guests at WAKKA

Wakka offers their guests a large variety of outdoor and indoor experiences they can arrange like boating cruises, craft workshops, and seasonal agricultural activities. Wakka has many unique things to do that you can add to your Shimanami Kaido experience. 

Here are just a few of the activities offered by Wakka:

• Boat Cruise & Water Sports
  • Okunoshima (Rabbit Island) Excursion
  • Chartered Fishing Tour
  • Wakeboarding
  • SUP
  • Omishima Fishing Park
• Arts and Crafts
  • Leather Craft Workshop
  • Omishima Citrus Aroma Workshop
  • Beeswax Candle Making
  • Pottery Experience
  • Flower Workshop
• Agricultural Activities
  • Omishima Citrus Picking: Available November-April
  • Omishima Strawberry Picking: Available January-early June
  • Honey Harvesting and Tasting: Available May & June 
• Yoga Activities
  • Yoga at Hakatajima
  • Yoga at Iwagijima

Click here for a complete list of WAKKA activities and prices

Cycling Support Services WAKKA Offers

Many of the services that Wakka offers their guests are offered to non-guests as well! So even if you aren’t staying at Wakka I would recommend saving their information in case you need to use any of their services. 

Cycle Taxi: This taxi service is exclusive for cyclists and their bicycles to get from various points on the island. Say you cycle to Imabari but want a ride back to Omishima. Wakka can pick you and your bike up and bring you back to your accommodation. 

• Capacity – Mini Bus: Capacity 9 passengers (or 5 passengers + 5 bicycles), Car: 4 passengers (or 3 passengers + 3 bicycles on the roof).
• Cost: Starting around 5,000 yen

Marine Taxi: This is a boat taxi service that allows passengers to get back and forth between the islands. 

• Capacity: 9 passengers (or 5 passengers + 5 bicycles)
• Cost: Starting at 8,000 yen

Rental Bike Return: This is a helpful service for those who are renting bikes from another location and only want to cycle Shimanami Kaido one way.

• Cost: Starting at 4,300 yen

Same-Day Luggage Delivery: This is a service for Wakka guests and non-guests! Travel hands-free by hiring Wakka to deliver your luggage to your accommodation. You can also use this service for bicycle delivery.

• Cost: Starting at 3,800 yen

On-site Repair Services: If a situation arises where you have a flat tire or other bike issue Wakka can provide on-site repairs wherever you are on the trail.

• Cost: ~3,000-5,000 yen

Click here to see all the services Wakka provides

Location: 6691-1 Kamiuracho Inokuchi, Imabari, Ehime 794-1402, Japan // MAP

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Other Shimanami Kaido Hotels

While we haven’t stayed at any of these Shimanami Kaido hotels they come highly recommended and are cycle-friendly!

• Cyclonoie: This Imabari guesthouse is very popular with cyclists and has private rooms and dormitory rooms. Nightly rates start at 2,900 per person for the dormitory rooms and 6,800 for a private room. Their website has a ton of additional information about Shimanami Kaido! // MAP
• Sawaki: This ryokan is conveniently located on Omishima near Oyamazumi Shrine and a number of other attractions. It has terrific kaiseki dining, e-bike rentals available, and rooms with large baths. // MAP
• I-Link Hostel & Cafe Shimanami: If you are looking for a budget-friendly place to stay on Shimanami Kaido this is a great hostel located on Omishima just off the Tatara Bridge. They have private single rooms, dormitory rooms, and private twin rooms for two guests. // MAP

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Things to Know Before Starting Shimanami Kaido

1. Ride on the left side of the road. Bike paths are clearly marked and some are designated for one-way traffic but if you are riding on the road or on a two-way traffic bike lane, make sure you are riding on the left. 
2. Just as you would if you were driving a car, obey all traffic lights and signs. 
3. Pedestrians have the right of way. Make sure to switch to the car lane if pedestrians are present and you can do so safely.
4. Do not use your phone on your bike. Using a mobile phone while riding your bike is prohibited and can result in a fine from the police. Instead, I would recommend bringing a compatible bike phone mount to use for directions to place on your bike. We did this so we could take videos and photos!
5. Emergency Services: If you have a minor emergency like a flat tire, fall and have minor scrapes, or can’t finish your ride there are phone stands you can use to call for help all over the trail or contact WAKKA for on-site repairs. If you have a more major incident call 110 (police) and/or 119 (ambulance). Since they are emergency numbers they are no charge to call but keep in mind that the operator may not speak English. Try to see if you can find a location marker near you which are located every 500 meters on curbs, guardrails, and post signs.
6. Cycling Rest Stops: There are many cycling rest stops along the Shiminami Kaido trails. They are usually located right before and/or after a bridge. They usually have food and drinks to purchase and bicycle tune-up stations. The Konbini (convenience stores) on Shimanami Kaido are also bike-friendly!
7. Use a light if cycling at night or near sunset. Most rental places do not allow cycling at night but some rental bikes do come with a light to use if you need to use it.
8. No drinking and riding. Japan has very strict rules on drinking alcohol and operating any sort of vehicle, this includes bicycles so although it might be tempting to get a few beers with lunch, save it for your celebratory meal once you finish Shimanami Kaido. 

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What to Bring for Shimanami Kaido

While rental companies offer complimentary bike locks, helmets, and water bottle holders, there are a few other things I recommend bringing while cycling Shimanami Kaido.

1. Bicycle bag: Having a small bag you can attach to your bike is a great option for carrying small items. Alternatively, you can bring a small backpack but it does add extra weight and back strain during your ride. We brought a backpack so we could carry our camera and snacks but we agreed that the next time we cycle Shimanami Kaido we’d leave that behind.
2. Bike phone mount: While the trails of Shimanami Kaido are clearly marked there are some places off-trail to stop at that are great additions to your bike ride. We both brought our bike phone mounts from home and attached them to our bikes so we could have our Strava app up as well as GPS. 
3. Cycling gloves: Biking for such an extended period of time results in some hand fatigue. I highly recommend bringing bike gloves to help prevent blisters and result in less fatigue.
4. Padded bike shorts, leggings, or padded underwear: Trust me when I say that you do NOT want to skip on bringing some padded cycling leggings. 
5. Comfortable sneakers: Make sure you wear shoes that are comfortable and you are okay with getting slightly dirty. Although I know seasoned cyclists my side eye my shoe choice I personally wore a pair of Vans because I packed pretty minimally and had no issues but I think I would bring something a little more supportive next time like my Hoka tennis shoes. Logan wore a pair of Adidas Ultraboost tennis shoes and found them to be comfortable for this trip!
6. Coin purse: Some of the bridges have small tolls totaling around 500 yen. These tolls are paid when crossing the bridges between the islands. Note: The tolls are currently suspended until March 31, 2024. 
7. Water and snacks: There are a number of stops you can make along the way to refill on drinks and snacks but make sure you have something to start your day with.
8. Sunscreen: Regardless of what season you bike Shimanami Kaido make sure you wear sunscreen! But especially so if you are cycling in the summer.
9. Rain Jacket: If you are planning to cycle in spring or summer you may want to bring a waterproof rain jacket. We cycled in some light rain on our second day and it made the ride bearable. It also is helpful for cutting that harsh wind over the bridges!
10. Battery Pack and Charging Cable: Keep your phone charged while on the trails!
11. A few small essentials like chapstick, an extra pair of contact lenses if you wear them, and sunglasses.

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Where to Rent Bicycles for Shimanami Kaido

There are two main bicycle rental systems with satellite terminals along Shimanami Kaido, Shimanami Cycle and Giant.

Shimanami Cycle is the cheapest of the two and offers 10 terminals throughout the course. Rental fees range from 3,000-8,000 yen per day depending on the bike you select. E-bikes from Shimanami Cycle must be returned the same day to one of their 10 terminals whereas road bike rentals can be kept overnight and returned to any of their terminals. Helmets and bike locks are included in your rental fee. 

Giant has two terminals on Shimanami Kaido, one at Onomichi Station and the other at Imabari Station. They are a little more expensive at 4,000-17,000 yen per day depending on the bike you select but offer a few higher quality bicycles to choose from. 

If you are renting a road bike from Giant you can pick it up at Onomichi Station and drop it off at Imabari Station (or vice versa) but it does require an advanced reservation (anywhere from 2-60 days in advance) with an additional 3,300 yen for a one-way trip. Like Shimanami Cycle, Giant provides customers with a helmet and bike lock to use while on their journey. 

Keep in mind that for both Shimanami Cycle and Giant, e-bikes MUST be returned to the terminal they were originally rented from or a designated drop-off terminal. They cannot be kept overnight which can be tricky if you don’t plan to ride Shimanami Kaido in one day. However, there are other ways to get your bike to one of the designated drop-off locations without cycling back which we will cover in this post. 

Alternatively, there are a few hotels that offer rental bike return services like WAKKA where we stayed while cycling Shimanami Kaido. WAKKA also has road bikes as well as Specialized e-bikes available for rent for their guests and non-guests if booked in advance.

So what kind of bike should you choose for riding Shimanami Kaido?

Personally, I am team e-bike all the way when it comes to Shimanami Kaido for a few reasons. First, e-bikes make the ride more relaxed but still provide a workout so you can enjoy the best of both worlds. The second is the elevation gain on the bridges.

During our ride, we saw many people on regular bikes who were struggling to make it up hills even in the lowest gear resulting in walking their bike up the hill. With our e-bikes on the highest setting, we still had to pedal pretty hard to make it up, but it was much easier.

Sure, there is a little more added hassle to renting an e-bike and extra cost but it is absolutely worth it to have the extra assistance when riding to the bridges or up the hills to some of the attractions on this itinerary.

I want to quickly mention that while Logan and I aren’t seasoned road cyclists, we have spent a lot of hours mountain biking and trail riding. If you are an experienced road cyclist whose main goal is to simply ride the trail with limited stops, you will probably do just fine with a regular road bike. But if you are a casual cyclist or are more experienced with other types of biking, flat trails, or downhill slopes, I would definitely urge you to get an e-bike. 

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How Long Should I Take to Do Shimanami Kaido?

While Shimanami Kaido can be done in one day with 8-10 hours of cycling, I would only recommend it if your main goal is to cycle and not visit attractions. Instead, I would recommend spending at least two days on Shimanami Kaido so you have time to stop at the many wonderful attractions and restaurants on the islands! 

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Shimanami Kaido Cycling Routes

The cycling route of Shimanami Kaido begins in Onomichi and ends in Imabari going across six bridges and six islands – Mukaishima, Innoshima, Ikuchijima, Omishima, Hakatajima, and Oshima. Alternatively, you can take the route from Imabari to Onomichi. 

We’ve done both routes and although the most popular route is from Onomichi to Imabari, my favorite is the route from Imabari to Onomichi because it is often less windy because the winds typically are blowing from the southwest. Plus the three Kurushima-Kaikyo Bridges at the end between Oshima and Imabari can be brutal after biking all day. 

The main Shimanami Kaido Cycling route from Onomichi to Imabari (or vice versa) is around 70km (~43 mi) and takes 8-10 hours with minimal stops.

No matter which direction you start from, you’ll see a blue line throughout your journey that indicates the recommended cycling route from the two cities through the islands. This blue line was created for Shimanami Kaido as a roadmap for cyclists from anywhere in the world. In addition the the blue painted line there are a number of English/Japanese road signs and maps at every rest stop which are usually directly before or after a bridge crossing.

We went off the path a number of times to visit places nearby, but it was always easy to find our way back to the main path with the help of Google Maps and the plentiful signage and markings.

Another thing to note: Although I did previously state this, I want to make sure you saw it again just in case you didn’t see the information on ferries. It is not recommended or advised to cross the Onomichi Bridge from Onomichi to/from Mukaishima. 

Unlike the other bridges on Shimanami Kaido the Onomichi Bridge is a heavily trafficked expressway with only one narrow pedestrian lane. Instead, take the five-minute ride on the Onomichi Ferry which departs every 5-10 minutes and costs only 70-110 yen per person with bicycle included. This ferry is cash only. 

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Cycling Shimanami Kaido in One Day

ONOMICHI TO IMABARI

DAY 1: Starting in Onomichi (8-10 hours of cycling time without stops)

• Onomichi → Mukaishima: Take the ferry from Onomichi port (5-minute ride)
• Mukaishima → Innoshima: Take the Innoshima bridge
• Innoshima → Ikuchijima: Take the Ikuchi bridge
• Ikuchijima → Omishima: Take the Tatara bridge
• Omishima → Hakatajima: Take the Omishima bridge
• Hakatajima → Oshima: Take the Hakata-Oshima bridge
• Oshima → Imabari: Take the three Kurushima-Kaikyo bridges

IMABARI TO ONOMICHI

DAY 1: Starting in Imabari (8-10 hours of cycling time without stops)

• Imabari → Oshima: Take the three Kurushima-Kaikyo bridges
• Oshima → Hakatajima: Take the Hakata-Oshima bridge
• Hakatajima → Omishima: Take the Omishima bridge
• Omishima → Ikuchijima: Take the Tatara bridge
• Ikuchijima → Innoshima: Take the Ikuchi bridge
• Innoshima → Mukaishima: Take the Innoshima bridge
• Mukaishima → Onomichi: Take the ferry to Onomichi port (5-minute ride)

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Cycling Shimanami Kaido in Two Days

ONOMICHI TO IMABARI

DAY 1: Starting in Onomichi (~4-5 hours of cycling time without stops)

• Onomichi → Mukaishima: Take the ferry from Onomichi port (5-minute ride)
• Mukaishima → Innoshima: Take the Innoshima bridge
• Innoshima → Ikuchijima: Take the Ikuchi bridge
• Ikuchijima → Omishima: Take the Tatara bridge
• Stay in Omishima

DAY 2: Starting in Omishima (~4-5 hours of cycling time without stops)

• Omishima → Hakatajima: Take the Omishima bridge
• Hakatajima → Oshima: Take the Hakata-Oshima bridge
• Oshima → Imabari: Take the three Kurushima-Kaikyo bridges

IMABARI TO ONOMICHI

DAY 1: Starting in Imabari (~4-5 hours of cycling time without stops)

• Imabari → Oshima: Take the three Kurushima-Kaikyo bridges
• Oshima → Hakatajima: Take the Hakata-Oshima bridge
• Hakatajima → Omishima: Take the Omishima bridge
• Stay in Omishima

DAY 2: Starting in Omishima (~4-5 hours of cycling time without stops)

• Omishima → Ikuchijima: Take the Tatara bridge
• Ikuchijima → Innoshima: Take the Ikuchi bridge
• Innoshima → Mukaishima: Take the Innoshima bridge
• Mukaishima → Onomichi: Take the ferry to Onomichi port (5-minute ride)

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Where to Eat on Shimanami Kaido

There are many places to stop and enjoy local cuisine while riding Shimanami Kaido. Of course, where you eat is largely going to vary based on your cycling route. Here are a few places we recommend eating while cycling Shimanami Kaido.

Where to Eat in Onomichi

• Oyatsu-to-Yamaneko: Dessert shop with purin, a Japanese pudding dessert that is similar to flan or panna cotta. It is sold in many different flavors and served in tiny milk bottles.
  • Location: Onomichi // MAP
• Karasawa Ice Cream: Stop in to get a monaka (wafer cracker) ice cream sandwich!
  • Location: Onomichi // MAP

Where to Eat on Innoshima

• 越智お好み焼店: Small okonomiyaki shop that has traditional Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki with either yakisoba noodles or udon.
  • Location: Innoshima // MAP

Where to Eat on Ikuchishima

• ミナミたこ焼き店: Takoyaki, okonomiyaki, and yakisoba restaurant. This restaurant is such a little gem! We stopped here after visiting Kousanji and had such a delightful meal. This small stand is operated by an older pair that make delicious takoyaki, Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki, and yakisoba. We ordered the tako yakisoba which is a specialty of this area. It came with delicious stir-fried noodles and the regular yakisoba toppings but with tako (octopus)! While we waited for our food the owner brought out some citrus fruits to eat and if you happen to be visiting Ichukishima during citrus season, don’t miss out on all the delicious fruit! I can safely say some of the oranges were even better than the ones we get in Florida (hopefully other Floridians don’t shun me for saying this).
  • Location: Ikuchishima // MAP
• Aori Restaurant: Many areas in Japan are known for their delicious, fresh seafood but the islands of this area offer many freshly-caught fish options in a variety of local dishes. Aori is a terrific spot if you want fresh squid dishes, which in my opinion, are vastly underrated. You can get tender squid sashimi or squid tempura along with a bowl of rice!
  • Location: Ikuchishima // MAP

Where to Eat on Omishima

• Marumado: This delicious bakery is a must-stop for breakfast or a light snack. Marumado has a variety of freshly baked pastries, breads, and even pizza!
  • Location: Omishima // MAP
• Country Time: A small cafe with a seasonally based set menu with many comfort foods like Japanese curry, karaage (Japanese fried chicken), and light menu items like soups and salads. They also have coffee and tea to enjoy with a variety of cakes.
  • Location: Omishima // MAP
• Ve.G.I: This is a great spot if you are looking for vegetarian options on Shimanami Kaido but they do have some meat entrees too. Ve.G.l uses organic, local ingredients to make their dishes like croquettes, gnocchi, wild boar ragu (from the island), and other pastas.
  • Location: Omishima // MAP
• Kifune: Great local spot to try a variety of fresh seafood – sashimi, rice bowls, and more.
  • Location: Omishima // MAP

Where to Eat on Hakatajima

• Sanwa: Ramen shop that serves Hakata salt ramen, spicy ramen, and even ramen with gyoza!
  • Location: Hakata // MAP
• Patisserie T’s Cafe Tamaya: Great spot to stop in for a coffee and a sweet treat like a fruit parfait or assorted cakes.
  • Location: Hakata // MAP

Where to Eat on Oshima

• 海の家魚蔵: Small seaside seafood restaurant that served assorted sashimi, tempura dishes, and even sazae (turban shell).
  • Location: Oshima // MAP
• Inakamon: Cozy izakaya with diverse small plates, oyakodon (chicken and egg rice bowl), anago don (conger eel rice bowl), and many other staple comfort foods.
  • Location: Oshima // MAP

Where to Eat in Imabari

• Matsu Noodle Factory: Udon restaurant that serves inexpensive, Sanuki udon with a variety of toppings. You can also order tempura to enjoy with your udon.
  • Location: Imabari // MAP
• Ohhama: Seafood restaurant that serves sashimi, donburi, tempura oysters, and chawanmushi, a delicious savory egg dish where you can enjoy lovely views of the sea from your table.
  • Location: Imabari // MAP

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Things to Do While on Shimanami Kaido

Onomichi, Imabari, and all of the islands boast many wonderful, unique things to do. Here are just a few of the places you can consider adding to your itinerary to make the most of your time.

Things to Do in Onomichi

Jodoji

One of Onomichi’s most important temples is Jodoji. This temple’s history dates back to 616 when it is said to have been built by Prince Shotoku, an influential leader during the 7th century who had a large influence on the spread of Buddhism in Japan. 

It is also noted that Takauji Ashikaga (1305—1358), the first shogun of the Ashikaga clan came to pray for victory in his battles at Jodoji on two different occasions. Today, the Yoshiwa Taiko Odori dance is still performed at the temple in August on even-numbered years to memorialize his victories.

The temple has long been regarded as nationally designated cultural property and the two-storied pagoda and main hall have been commemorated as National Treasures. Jodoji’s most prominent figure is that of the 9th-century statue of the Eleven-faced Goddess of Mercy which is made with hinoki wood in various colors.

Location: 20-28 Higashikubocho, Onomichi, Hiroshima 722-0043, Japan // MAP

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Kairyuji

Just a short distance away from Jodoji you’ll find Kairyuji Temple on the foot of Mt. Ruriyama. This temple was established in 1245. Unique places to visit on the temple grounds include the burial site of Takemoto Yatayu, a performer who specialized in Bunraku, classical Japanese puppetry. Praying at his monument is said to bring improvement to a person’s artistic abilities!

Location: 22-8 Higashikubocho, Onomichi, Hiroshima 722-0043, Japan // MAP

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Tenneiji

Another temple worth visiting in Onomichi is Tenneiji. Tenneiji was founded by Fumyo Kokushi with the aid of Yoshiakira Ashikaga in 1397. Perhaps one of the best features at Tenneiji is the view of the sea you can enjoy from the tower at the temple. Another must-see is the 526 Buddhist saint statues located in the Rakando Hall. In the spring Tenneiji is often referred to as the “flower temple” because you can see many sakura trees in bloom along with weeping cherry trees and peonies. 

Location: 17-29 Higashitsuchidocho, Onomichi, Hiroshima 722-0033, Japan // MAP

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Senkoji Temple & Park

The last temple I recommend visiting in Onomichi is the iconic Senkoji. Senkoji was founded in the 9th century. According to a legend, there was a mysterious stone located on top of a large rock with three Buddhist statues carved into it. This stone would glow at night guiding ships to port. While you can reach Senkoji on foot, you can also take the ropeway that will take you from the bottom of the hill to the summit of Senkoji Park. Once you reach the top you’ll immediately be in awe of this hillside red temple that has a stunning view of the surrounding landscapes, the city, and the sea. 

In Senko-ji Park you can enjoy another panoramic view of the city and Onomichi Channel. In the spring, this is also one of the top places for sakura viewing. Throughout the park, you can also find the Path of Literature which contains poems by Onomichi poets engraved in stone. 

Location: 15-1 Higashitsuchidocho, Onomichi, Hiroshima 722-0033, Japan // MAP

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Things to Do on Mukaishima

Goto Soda Factory

Goto Soda Factory is a cute ramune soda shop that sells a variety of soda flavors such as melon, orange, ciders, coffee and more. All of the sodas are in vintage bottles from the Showa era and although you can’t take many of them with you, there are some ciders you can take home as a souvenir. Stop in for a refreshing drink and shop their selection of vintage soda crates and other novelties.

Location: 755-2 Mukaishimacho, Onomichi, Hiroshima 722-0073, Japan // MAP

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Ushio Chocolatl

Ushio Chocolatl is an exceptional small-batch chocolate shop that uses high-quality cacao beans ethically sourced directly from small cacao farmers. They are then processed and manufactured into chocolate bars inside their shop! 

Not only is their process unique, but Ushio Chocolatl bars are in a unique hexagon shape with wrappers featuring colorful designs from different local artists. Although it’s a steep incline for cyclists to get here, you can still stop in to take a rest while enjoying a drink and try some samples of their chocolate.

Want to take some chocolate with you? Here are the chocolate bars that Ushio Chocolatl currently offers:

REGULAR CHOCOLATE BARS

• Guatemala – 68% cacao with notes of yeast and oranges
• Vietnam – 65% cacao with fruity notes of raisins and prunes
• Tanzania – 69% cacao with a rich, bitter taste and a hint of grape juice.
• Ghana – 73% cacao with a coconut-like sweetness
• Haiti – 73% cacao with an aroma of peach and notes of black tea.
• Taiwan – 70% cacao, made with rare cacao beans from Taiwan with a subtle blue cheese flavor and strawberry aroma.
• Onomichi Blend – 70% cacao blend of cacao beans from three different countries.
• Citrus Blend – 68% cacao, made with dried Satsuma mandarin oranges from Setouchi and  organic almonds
• Kurashiki Cargo Blend –  73% cacao blend with mint.
• Coffee Blend – 65% cacao, made with ground coffee beans from Beyond Coffee Roasters in Kobe

VEGAN CHOCOLATE BARS (made with cashew milk)

• Milk chocolate 
• White chocolate is made with cocoa butter extracted from the cacao beans.
• Hojicha (roasted green tea) chocolate with tea leaves from Saitama Prefecture.

Location: Japan, 〒722-0071 Hiroshima, Onomichi, 向島町立花２２００ 立花自然活用村管理センター // MAP

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Takamiyama Viewpoint

The first of many epic designated viewpoints on Shimanami Kaido is Takamiyama Viewpoint which gives you a fantastic view of the Seto Inland Sea and other nearby islands. Although this is a great vantage point,  I will say that the climb to get here is pretty steep so if you want to save your legs you can stop by one of the other viewpoints later on in this guide. Plus, if you just make the trek to Ushio Chocolatl the reward was probably much greater!

Location: Mukaishimacho Tachibana, Onomichi, Hiroshima 722-0071, Japan // MAP

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Things to Do on Innoshima

Hassakuya

This small cafe has waterfront views along with coffee and daifuku, a traditional confection typically made with sweet rice flour, sweet bean paste, and fresh fruit. The daifuku at Hassakuya is filled with white bean paste and seasonal citrus fruit – ours was amanatsu, a small sweet orange! This is also a great spot to rest while enjoying your sweets and browse some of the handmade gifts on the front table from local artisans. 

Location: 246-1 Innoshimaohamacho, 因島大浜町 Onomichi, Hiroshima 722-2101, Japan // MAP

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Shiratakiyama Observation Deck 

Mt. Shirataki is a mountain that is often used for monastic training which will be evident as you walk up the path with around 700 stone buddhas leading you up to the top. At the end of your trek, you’ll be rewarded with a stunning view of the Seto Island Sea and nearby islands. This location has also been thought to have been used as a lookout by the Murakami Suigun maritime clan.

Location: Innoshimashigeicho, Onomichi, Hiroshima 722-2102, Japan // MAP

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Innoshima Suigun Castle

Although small, Innoshima Suigun Castle is one of the most interesting castle museums in Japan. Inside you’ll find historical information about the Murakami Suigun maritime clan (pirates) who roamed the Geiyo Islands from 1336 until 1467 and were considered to be the largest pirate clan in all of Japan. 

The Seto Island Sea has been a hotspot for sea transport for hundreds of years and although the waters seem calm, the area’s complicated tides and geography made this area difficult to navigate. The Murakami pirates built many shipping lanes and safely guided boats that paid their tolls through the waters while protecting them from other pirates.

Although the first thing that usually comes to mind when hearing the word “pirate” is a ruthless band of plunderers, according to history the Murakami pirates were heavily focused on a code of ethics and protected local trade in the Seto Island Sea, although they did charge for it.

Location: 3228-2 Innoshimanakanoshocho, Onomichi, Hiroshima 722-2211, Japan // MAP
Cost: ¥330 adults,  ¥160 children

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Things to Do on Ikuchijima

Kosanji Temple

If there is one place you simply cannot miss while on Shimanami Kaido, it’s Kosanji. You simply MUST stop here. Kosanji is a temple founded in 1936 by Kozo Kosanji, a successful businessman trained in French-style welding techniques. He built Kosanji over a period of 30 years as a dedication to his late mother and even entered the priesthood all in order to repay a debt of gratitude as a son. 

As you walk through the temple grounds you may feel a sense of familiarity, that is because many of the structures have been influenced by other prominent temples in Japan including Nikko’s Toshogu Shrine and the Phoenix Hall at Byodoin.

There are a number of sites to see at Kosanji so make sure you give yourself at least an hour to enjoy everything!

Starting on the lower of the temple complex, you’ll first visit Chouseikaku Villa which was built in 1927 as a private retreat for Kosanji’s mother. It is a Japanese-Western hybrid with elaborate details much like that of the temple. While inside, pay attention to the sliding door paintings many of which were painted by famous Japanese artists.

Next head to the middle level to visit the Kosanji Museum Galleries located in the Hohozo and Sohozo Pavilions to the left and right of the five-story pagoda. These pavilions feature a collection of sculptures, paintings, and handicrafts that were collected over a lifetime by Kozo Kosanji.  At the end of your visit to the main temple complex, you can also visit the  Kongo Gallery which is located outside of the main area in Jodoen Garden.

Then go to the upper level to the Main Hall. After visiting the Main Hall, walk to the east side to find the entrance to the Thousand Buddha Cave. This long-developed cave has an abundance of Buddha statues inside every nook of the cave path. Along the path, you’ll also see a sequence of images displaying the tortures of Buddhist hell. After walking through the cave you’ll come out to the Great Statue of Kuse Kannon. 

Walk to the east again following signs for The Hill of Hope. The Hill of Hope is another iconic addition to Kosanji Temple. It was created over a period of 16 years by Itto Kuetani, a Japanese sculptor who resides in Italy. It took over 3,000 tons of Cararra marble to create this remarkable garden. You can walk up the marble steps or take an elevator and ramp to the top of the Tower of Light, the peak of the hill.

The theme of this sculpture garden is “Familial Ties” representing peace in the world and hope for the future. I’ve visited Kosanji on two different trips, the first was in summer when the weather was bright, sunny, and hot causing the marble to be stark white under the clear blue skies. On my second visit while biking Shimanami Kaido we had cooler, overcast weather causing the marble’s gray veining to show up more.

After taking some time at the Hill of Hope you can head over to the cafe for a coffee or tea or if you happen to be visiting in the spring try the sakura gelato from the cafe! Then head back down to get ready to bike some more!

Location: 553-2 Setodacho Setoda, Onomichi, Hiroshima 722-2411, Japan // MAP
Cost: ¥1,400 adults, ¥1,000 students, children (middle school and younger) are free

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Hirayama Ikuo Museum of Art 

Just a short distance from Kosanji is The Hirayama Ikuo Museum of Art which contains many works of Hirayama Ikuo. Hirayama Ikuo was a 20th-century Nihonga artist who was born and raised in Setoda. This collection features many rare pieces of his art including paintings, sketches, and art from his youth.

Location: 200-2 Setodachosawa, Onomichi, Hiroshima 722-2413, Japan // MAP
Cost: ¥920 adults, ¥410 university and high school students, ¥210 middle and elementary school students

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Shimagokoro Setoda Honten

If you want to enjoy some delicious desserts or bring back some yummy cakes as a souvenir head to Shimagokoro Setoda Honten. If you want to eat something in the shop I recommend getting one of their lemon cream puffs which are prepared fresh as you wait! Otherwise, get a variety of their infamous lemon cakes to take with you. I was impressed by how moist and flavorful these little cakes were. My favorites were the orange and lemon flavors!

Location: 209-32 Setodachosawa, Onomichi, Hiroshima 722-2413, Japan // MAP

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Dolce Ice Cream

Okay so I’ve recommended a few ice cream spots on Shimanami Kaido but Dolce Ice Cream is the one I’d definitely pick if I only stopped at one. I recommend trying either their lemon or mandarin ice cream paired with the Hakata salt. After selecting your ice cream head outside to their outdoor seating area to enjoy your treat by the water! 

Location: 20-8 Setodachohayashi, Onomichi, Hiroshima 722-2416, Japan // MAP

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Things to Do on Omishima

Michi-no-Eki (Cyclist Sanctuary)

When cycling through Omishima make sure to stop and get a commemorative photo by the Shimanami Kaido sign at the Cyclist Sanctuary Monument at Tatara Shimanami Park. This is also a great place to rest for a moment or grab a drink or a bite to eat before heading on your way!

Location: Japan, 〒794-1402 Ehime, Imabari, 上浦町井口9180 // MAP

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Omishima Brewery

If you’re stopping in Omishima for the night on a two-day Shimanami Kaido trip, get a celebratory beer at Omishima Brewery. Omishima Brewery currently brews 4 to 5 beers that they keep on tap or are available for purchase in the bottle. I personally enjoyed their pale ale and white ale which were exceptionally well crafted! Not interested in having a beer? They also have some non-alcoholic options and light snacks to enjoy with your drink! 

Location: 5589 Omishimacho Miyaura, Imabari, Ehime 794-1304, Japan // MAP

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Oyamazumi Jinja

Oyamazumi Jinja is a very important shrine on Omishima. It is said that this shrine is where Oyama Mitsui-no-Kami is worshiped. Oyama Mitsui no Kami is the big brother of the sun goddess, Amaterasu Omikami, and has been seen as the god of the mountains, ocean, and warriors.

There are many sacred and beautiful buildings to visit on the grounds of the shrine but one sacred space that differs from the rest is Ochi no Mikoto, the camphor tree that stands in front of the main shrine. This tree is over 2,600 years old and is said to have been planted by a descendant of Oyama Mitsui no Kami.

Location: 3327 Omishimacho Miyaura, Imabari, Ehime 794-1393, Japan // MAP

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Hakata Salt Industry

Have you ever been interested in salt harvesting? At Hakata Salt Industry you can get a first look at how salt is collected and made. Make sure to try the salt ice cream if you didn’t get some at Dolce Ice Cream and purchase some Hakata salt products to take home. 

Location: 32 Omishimachoutena, Imabari, Ehime 794-1305, Japan // MAP

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Mare Grassia

If you need to soak your aching muscles after a day of cycling head over to Mare Grassia, a hot springs facility that offers eight different kinds of onsen including one for pressure point massage, a seawater bath for improving circulation, and a walking bath to stimulate pressure points on the feet. But of course, the best is the outdoor onsen which has a terrific view at sunset!

Location: 5902 Omishimacho Miyaura, Imabari, Ehime 794-1304, Japan // MAP
Cost: ¥520 adults, ¥420 seniors, ¥260 elementary students

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Omishima Limone

If there is a cute shop to visit, I’m going to find it! Omishima Limone as you might have guessed is a small shop with all things citrus fruits! When we first stopped in the owner brought us some complimentary orange juice to try while we browsed around the store looking at the crocheted goods, handmade earrings, jams, and juices.

If we hadn’t been biking I would have purchased some of their homemade limoncello to take back with us but I instead bought a few smaller, manageable items like a crocheted lemon coaster and lemon baumkuchen cake made on the island. 

Location: Japan, 〒794-1404 Ehime, Imabari, 上浦町瀬戸2342 // MAP

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Things to Do on Hakatajima

Hirakiyama Park & Mt. Kaizan

Hirakiyama Park is one of my favorite places we visited in the spring on Shimanami Kaido! If you happen to visit during peak sakura season you can see over 1,000 sakura trees in bloom all along the hill on Mt. Kaizan. It is also another place where you can get a fantastic view of the nearby islands and bridges from the wooden observation deck. By the outdoor eating area stop by the metal slide where you can travel down the hill to another part of the park! The cycling climb to get to the parking lot of Hirakiyama Park is a bit of a trek so make sure you account for extra travel time and for visiting the park. 

Location: Hakatacho Ikata, Imabari, Ehime 794-2303, Japan // MAP

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Things to Do on Oshima

Murakami Kaizoku Museum

Remember those pirates I mentioned before? If you didn’t get the chance to visit Innoshima Suigun Castle then you can learn more about the Murakami pirates at the Murakami Kaizoku Museum. There are many authentic artifacts to view in the museum and you can enjoy taking in the former site of Noshima Castle. 

Location: Japan, 〒794-2203 Ehime, Imabari, Miyakubocho Miyakubo, 1285 内 // MAP

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Yoshiumi Rose Park

From mid-May until the end of December, you can enjoy nearly 3,500 roses of 400 different varieties at Yoshiumi Rose Park. It is the largest rose garden in the Chugoku Region and hosts a yearly rose festival where you can enjoy rose ice cream while you take a moment to enjoy the pretty flowers!

Location: 1290 Yoshiumicho Fukuda, Imabari, Ehime 794-2103, Japan // MAP

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Kirosan Park

Okay so I know I’ve mentioned A LOT of observation decks, but once you are on your Shimanami Kaido journey you’ll see why it’s worth visiting all that you can. The water, bridge, and islands are just so beautiful from all of these vantage points. One of the best observation areas to get a view of the Oshima is at Kirosan Park. If you are lucky to visit on a day when skies are clear you can get a view of Mt. Ishizuchi, western Japan’s tallest mountain! 

Location: Yoshiumichomyo, Imabari, Ehime 794-2114, Japan // MAP

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Things to Do in Imabari

Imabari Castle

Imabari Castle was built between 1602 and 1606 by Todo Takatora, who was famous for his castle design including many other famous Japanese castles like Wakayama Castle. The castle was built facing the Seto Inland Sea and is considered to be one of the best sea castles in Japan. 

Unfortunately, many of the buildings were destroyed leaving only the castle’s main stone walls and the innermost moat. It wasn’t until 1980 that the castle’s features were rebuilt to its previous grandeur. One of the unique things about Imabari Castle is the waters inside the moat that rise and fall with the tides so when you visit, make sure you take a look to see the changing waters. 

Location: Japan, 〒794-0036 Ehime, Imabari, Toricho, 3 Chome−１−3 // MAP
Cost: ¥520 adults, ¥420 seniors, ¥260 students

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Kurushima Strait Observatory

Just like that, here is Kurushima Strait Observatory, the last vantage point on this Shimanami Kaido guide. Again, while they’re all beautiful each one has a different view so as you’ve completed (or are about to start) the trek across the Kurushima Bridges take a moment to appreciate a view of all the islands from Imabari and if you’re lucky you might even get to see some of the Naruto whirlpools below! 

Location: 2 Chome-5-2 Kouracho, Imabari, Ehime 799-2111, Japan // MAP

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Towel Museum

Imabari has an interesting towel culture so it’s only natural to have a museum completely based on this craft. At the Towel Museum, you can learn about the manufacturing process, learn the history of towels in Imabari and Japan, and take in the towel designs. This attraction is a little off the regular course but if you have some extra time or are staying in Imabari it’s worth adding to your list! 

Location: Ko-2930 Asakurakami, Imabari, Ehime 799-1607, Japan // MAP
Cost: ¥800 adults, ¥600 middle and high school students, ¥500 seniors

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Cycling Shimanami Kaido was one of my favorite adventures we’ve had in Japan to date! I hope you enjoy trying all the local cuisine and taking in the breathtaking views while riding on the paths of these islands.